GEMS FROM ESPRIT MYSTIQUE ARTISAN JEWELRY - TUCSON, ARIZONA

April is National Humor Month! Here's Some Humorous Jewelry & Paintings

2010-04-04T12:44:00.000-07:00

I am a Metalsmith, not a Writer. I have a writer friend, Agnes Franz, who is completing a book called, "What's So #$%!# Funny?" She finds humor in even the dreariest of situations. I love to talk to her cuz' she always makes me laugh. If you have a funny anecdote you would like to share, she may publish it in her book. And, of course you will receive full credit for your story. Share your humorous anecdotes with her here.

Since April is National Humor Month, here are some some jewelry and paintings that have subtle "tongue-in-cheek" humor. Perhaps you will find them as entertaining as I do.

Sarah Doremus' Jewelry pieces are extremely clever and have a pointedly humorous view of what some folks consider "serious" subjects. Like her "24K Bracelet" that has 24 carrots set in gold. Or, her "Screwed" ring. (I can't describe it, but you'll laugh when you see it.) Sarah's kinetic sculpture is ingeniously constructed and has some funny elements too. Take a look. I particularly like the "Queen Elizabeth Wave" ring and the "Self Congratulatory" ring. (Sarah's slide program is in a format that is not possible to pull individual photos for this post.)

Diana Madaras' paintings capture poignant moments that can be heart wrenching, but she also has a lighter, funky style that evokes fun and cheery moments in the animal world. Like "Pig Malion,"

"Ewe II" and

and "Funky Cow Medina."

If you have witty, tongue-in-cheek jewelry or paintings that others will enjoy, please share them with us to celebrate National Humor Month.

We all need a good laugh in these rough economic times.

Warmly, from Tucson, AZ (it's 80 degrees!)

Virginia Vivier
Facebook: Virginia Vivier
Esprit-Mystique-Artisan-Jewelry
Tucson, AZ

DIY Acid Etching on Metal for Jewelry Making - Part IV: Etching on Silver Using Ferric Nitrate

2010-02-19T20:12:00.000-08:00

Part I of DIY Acid Etching on Metal for Jewelry covered how to transfer designs on metal.

Part II and III covered how to prepare an acid etch bath for copper and brass.

In Part IV, the same techniques apply for etching on silver, except the acid is different. Please review Part I - III to help understand the basic etching process.

Here’s my unscientific method for etching on silver, plus how you can avoid making the same mistakes I did.

Part IV: DIY Etching on Silver for Jewelry Using Ferric Nitrate

Ferric nitrate provides a clean etch on sterling silver and fine silver.

You can buy ferric nitrate crystals at most chemical supply stores. I buy from Adchemco Scientific in Tucson, Arizona. ($60 for 5 pounds of crystals. Smaller quantities available for less $$$).

If you order ferric nitrate from an out-of-state supplier, the cost will include shipping and HAZMAT packing costs, so try to find a local supplier to save $$$. (When I was an ASU student I bought it through my local University Chemistry Store, but 9-11 may have changed that.)

Ferric nitrate crystals look like lumps of sugar with a light hues of purple. Ferric nitrate crystals should be combined with distilled water, but I confess, I use tap water and have not had any problems.

You may have more minerals in your water supply that could make a difference, but I apologize in that I haven’t researched those variables. So, to be safe, jot down “distilled water” on your grocery list and have it handy.

When it comes to a recipe for mixing a ferric nitrate solution, I have done a bit of research and experimenting. I found that a 50/50 mix works well. So, you don't need to buy a gram scale if you don’t have one.

By now, you may be thinking, "She probably adds a “pinch of this” and a “dollop of that” when she cooks, rather than following a strict recipe." Very true! I'm attempting to show where you can cut corners and where you must be careful.

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Note: Please do not confuse ferric nitrate with ferric chloride. Ferric chloride works well on copper and brass, but does NOT work on silver.

Ferric chloride and ferric nitrate are corrosive iron salts. Although they are potentially harmful chemicals, they are much safer to use than acid. They do not have noxious fumes and are not absorbed through the skin. They will stain skin, counter tops, and clothes, so wear gloves, protect your working surfaces, and wear old clothes when etching.

To be safe, please read the precautions listed in the Goss Studios article on etching, sent courtesy of Art Chemicals.com. I have never experienced fumes or flammability, as mentioned in the article and am not cavalier about handling chemicals, but feel that some precautions are overkill.

I smile when I see a warning on a paper coffee cup: “Caution, hot liquid may cause severe burns.” (OK, I can see the steam - I get it. : )
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Here is the link to the formal recipe for etching on Silver, sent courtesy of ArtChemicals.com. The article is written by Goss Design Studios.

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Goss Design Studios - Ferric Nitrate Etching Recipe
400 ml of distilled water
300 grams of Ferric Nitrate

Always add crystals to water!
NEVER water to crystals.

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My Unscientific Etching Process:

Fill a quart size (glass or plastic) measuring pitcher with 2 cups of tap water. Slowly add enough ferric nitrate crystals (about 2 cups) to make a total solution of 1 quart. Mix carefully with a wooden or plastic spoon (do not use anything metal) until the crystals are dissolved. The solution will turn a dark greenish color that is fairly clear compared to the thick, opaque, greenish ferric chloride, which is used straight out of the bottle. (I feel like I should be chanting a "Spell" while stirring, as it reminds me of a Witch's brew. : )

The instruction from Goss Studios says to “kick start” the solution with “a teaspoon of old, 5:1 diluted, nitric acid solution.” I skipped that. I have worked with nitric acid and it is very dangerous stuff. I avoid it whenever possible. If you are more daring than I, please try the Goss recipe. It may increase the strength of your ferric nitrate solution. I'd love to learn about your results.

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Note on Nitric Acid Etching:

An accepted way of etching silver is to use nitric acid. I tried etching silver, using 3:1 nitric acid solution, and was very disappointed in the results. The acid quickly corroded the dry toner design and red Staedtler pen resist. The edges of the design came out fuzzy. The fumes were so bad that I decided it was not something I wanted in my studio.
However, many professional jewelers swear by it as a clean etch method. They use a stronger resist, like asphaultum, which I find messy and hard to work with.

I calculated that it costs less to use nitric acid than ferric nitrate, as it lasts longer and a smaller amount is required per etch. Nitric acid concentration gets stronger as the water evaporates, unlike ferric nitrate, which is weakened by moisture.

It is necessary to follow safe OSHA disposal requirements. You can get more info on nitric acid etching on the internet.
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You can etch about 20 pendant-sized pieces of silver in a quart solution of ferric nitrate before it starts to slow down and finally exhaust. I calculated that (in a perfect world) 5 pounds of ferric nitrate, at $60, should produce approximately 100 etched pendants at a cost of 60 cents per piece, just to etch.

This technique is better for creating your own special unique, one-of-a-kind designs. This may not be an economical way to create a wholesale line of jewelry. There are more economical ways of producing a jewelry design that appears to be etched, such as having a wax model cast by professionals.

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This photo shows the original 4 inch x 2 inch, 16 gauge, piece of sterling silver intended to be a bracelet.
The design has been "ironed on" and the edges filled in with red Staedtler pen resist. The back of the silver is covered with clear plastic packing tape as a resist to the ferric nitrate.

The transfer design was made with of a sheet of IBM transparency acetate copied on my dry toner copy machine.

The copy machine transferred a thick layer of dry toner (dark black lines) on to the acetate.

The acetate was then placed (toner side down) on the squeaky clean piece of sterling silver. I put a piece of paper towel on top of the acetate. I placed a hot iron on top of the paper towel (for about 3 minutes) this heated the acetate and melted the dry toner on to the silver.
When the hot metal cooled enough to touch, it was placed in a glass jar of water. The acetate popped off easily, leaving the dry toner design on the silver.

I used a red Steadtler pen to touch up a couple of places that didn’t transfer fully to the silver.

The outside borders of the design were filled in with red Staedtler pen as a resist to the acid.

HERE IS WHERE I BLEW IT!

A 50/50 solution of ferric nitrate takes twice as long to etch silver as ferric chloride does to etch copper and brass.

CAUTION: Don’t be blasé about it. I learned the hard way. Below is a photo of a nice, thick piece of silver I was etching for a bracelet. I got involved in another project and lost track of time. It was in the etch bath for 6 hours and the ferric nitrate etched holes all the way through the silver in some spots. I was miffed at my neglect (and material loss), but it was a valuable lesson. I was pleased to see that the dry toner resist held up very well the whole time. The red Staedler border ink mask did break down somewhat. I should have taped it, but I didn't think it would be etching for 6 hours!

Since then, I always carry a loud alarm timer set for 30 minutes as a reminder to check on the etch bath. (Fortunately, I was able use the middle section of the design, so it wasn’t a complete loss. And, you can always send silver (mistake) scraps to a refiner in exchange for a $$ check.)

The back of the silver sheet was covered with clear packing tape to protect it from etching. So the etching came from the front side of the piece.

The clear acetate shows how well the dry toner melted onto the metal. Only a few spots of the black dry toner are left on the clear acetate. Most of the dry toner melted on to the silver nicely.

In case you place the iron on the design too long, delicate lines may run together. So it might take a bit of experimenting to see how long it takes to melt the toner and still retain crisp design elements.

You can always start over if the toner smears or doesn’t transfer completely. Just clean off the metal with acetone (or alcohol) and begin again. No loss.

You’ll get the hang of it after a few tries.
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Summary of Etching on Silver:

THE DESIGN

a.) Draw your design directly on silver using a red Staedtler pen.

b.) Or, use Future clear floor wax (or fingernail polish) as a resist. Scratch out a design through the resist. You can also use tape as a resist to block off areas.

c.) Or, draw a design on paper, then scan it, resize it, and save it on Photoshop using the darkest black / white contrast available.

Print out the design in highest resolution possible.

d.) Make sure any lettering or numbers in your design are “mirror” image, so they “read right” when transferred to the silver.

e.) Copy the design at a photocopy store (or use your own copier) on a machine that uses dry toner. Set the copy as dark as possible to achieve a thick layer of dry toner on a sheet of heavy magazine paper or acetate transparency.

f.) Cut out the dry toner design copy leaving a ¼ inch margin around the perimeter.

DESIGN TRANSFER TO SILVER

a.) To recap - Layer design, silver and paper towels, per diagram as shown:

(Make sure your flat workspace is not harmed by the heat of the iron. I have scorch marks on my dining room table! An old desk or wood table works well. Must be completely FLAT. An ironing board does not work.)

b.) Heat an old iron to hottest setting. (Note: A newer, expensive iron that has an “automatic shut off” won’t work.)

c.) You can use an old electric skillet, set at 350 degrees, just reverse the order of the diagram above so the silver design is facing up. Use something very flat and very heavy (an iron?) to lay on top of the design. Don’t wiggle it when you remove it or it may smear the melted toner. It helps if the weight has a handle so it can be lifted straight up easily.

d.) The iron (or skillet) remains in contact with the silver until the dry toner melts on the metal.
Note: The time may vary depending on the thickness of the silver, depth of toner and heat of the iron (or skillet). You can hear the iron and the skillet thermostats clicking on and off to maintain the temperature.

e.) When you lift the iron off the metal, don’t remove the paper (or transparency acetate) from the silver. Let it cool down slowly. When it is cool enough to touch, carefully pick it up by the edges and drop it into a glass jar of water. When it is cool, you can pop off the transparency acetate or soak off the magazine paper, leaving the dry toner layer that has melted onto the silver.

f.) Tape off areas of your design (such as the back) that you do not want to etch.

g.) Attach silver (dry toner side down) to a piece of Styrofoam, or a piece of plastic bubble envelope, so it will float (like a flat bottomed boat) on top of the ferric chloride etch bath.

THE FERRIC NITRATE ETCH BATH

a.) Using a plastic or glass container, wide enough to accommodate your silver “boats,” mix 50:50 solution of ferric nitrate. Container can be shallow in depth since the silver will be floating on top of the ferric nitrate solution.

Make sure your ferric nitrate container is sitting on top of, or beside something that vibrates, (Part III refers to dryer or aquarium air pump) to help move the etched particles off the metal.

b.) Set timer for 30 minutes and lay the silver “boats” on top of the ferric nitrate solution.

c.) Check every 30 minutes for level of etch you wish to achieve for your design. (I admit that sometimes I quickly stick my fingers into the ferric nitrate to pluck out a floating boat, and all it does is stain my fingers a bit. If washed off quickly, no stain on skin, but sometimes need to soak fingernails in weak bleach solution to remove the stains later that night.)

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Note: I found it necessary to rinse off gunk that accumulated on the design side of the silver "boats" every 30 minutes or so. This was not necessary for etches on brass and copper using ferric chloride.

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Also check for any missing areas in your design that may have deteriorated. You can rinse off the ferric nitrate and repair missing areas with red Staedtler pen if needed. Then return to acid bath.

d.) When design is etched to your satisfaction, remove from ferric nitrate and place in separate solution of 3 TBL baking soda and 1 cup water. When the solution stops fizzing, remove the silver and rinse thoroughly in water. Remove all tape and rinse again.

e.) Make sure you put a secure (plastic) lid on the ferric nitrate solution.

Admire your etched design!!!

DIY: Acid Etching on Brass & Copper Metal for Jewelry Making - Part II & Part III

2010-02-08T20:52:00.001-08:00

In a previous article, Acid Etching on Metals for Jewelry Making, PART I, we discussed how to transfer photocopied graphic designs to flat pieces of brass and copper for etching multiple designs.

(Note: You can click on any photo in these articles to enlarge them for detailed viewing, then click on "Back" button to return to article)

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ACID ETCHING ON BRASS & COPPER FOR JEWELRY MAKING – Part II
HAND DRAWING DESIGNS ON BRASS & COPPER FOR ACID ETCHING - My unscientific, but personally tested results.

Another way of preparing brass or copper for etching is to draw directly on the metal using a special ink as a “resist.” You need a special ink that will “resist” the acid without deteriorating during the etching process.

If you Google Acid Etching on Metal, you will find a wide variety of articles, many very helpful. That’s how I got started. I experimented with many methods before I found one that worked consistently for me.

Some methods require expensive materials, like PNP (Press N Peel) transfer paper, which I found to be hit or miss compared to the heat transfer method, as explained in PART I. Other methods recommended special pens for drawing designs on copper circuit boards. Still others recommended very expensive printing press engraver inks that dry up too quickly and are messy to use.

In my research, the pen that works best consistently (for me) is made in Germany. I have tried many other brands, but the ink breaks down during the etching process and ruins the final design.

I can CONFIDENTLY recommend felt tip pens “Staedtler Lumocolor CD-R Pen” – They come in a package of 4 colors, Red, Black, Blue and Green. You can buy a 4-pack on Amazon for $6.99.

The red pen works best as a strong “resist” to Ferric Chloride and Ferric Nitrate. But in a pinch, the black pen works for short etching sessions of 1 hour or less. If you want a very deep etch, and need to leave it in the etching bath for more than 1 hour, I would not use any color other than red. The other colors may break down in Ferric Chloride and Ferric Nitrate after 1 hour or so.

Upon examining one of these pens carefully, I noticed that it says, “refillable,” which I find very interesting. I couldn’t find a way to open it for refilling. But if anyone knows how to refill one, please share your knowledge!

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Note for Acid Etching Part I:

You can use a red Staedtler pen to touch up any missed spots for heat transferred designs using photocopies with dry toner. If there is a bubble or small spot missing that didn’t transfer to the metal, simply use a red Staedtler pen to fill it in.

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A limitation of Staedtler CD-R Lumocolor pens is that they are only available in medium point. I would LOVE a fine point for delicate designs! I have tried at least 20 different brands of CD, waterproof, permanent felt tip pens, in a fine point, but none held up in the etching process. I even tried tapering the end of the red Staedtler medium tip pen with an Xactoknife and a pair of sharp scissors, but the tip fibers frayed unsatisfactorily. Again, if you have had good luck with a specific brand of fine point felt pen that has a stable ink “resist” for Ferric Chloride etchant, please share the good news with all of us!

One nice thing about drawing your design by hand is that you can etch round objects, like bracelets. I etch designs on recycled, pure brass bullet shells and have found it very relaxing to draw designs on 100 shells or so, while watching TV at night.

This photo show a 7mm Magnum, pure brass, recycled bullet shell with black ink resist, ready for etching. (I used black ink so it will show up in the photo. Black ink will hold up for a fairly shallow etch, but I normally suggest red Staedtler pen. (Red Staedtler ink is somewhat transparent and doesn’t provide enough contrast to show up well in a photo.)

Here is an example of a pure brass, bangle bracelet that was etched on both the inside and the outside, at the same time. Metalliferous carries an interesting variety of pure brass bracelets that etch nicely. Pure copper, or pure brass, will etch equally well in Ferric Chloride. *Don’t use plated metals.*

Before you start drawing, make sure the brass or copper is roughened up slightly with #0000 steel wool, or scrubbed with powdered cleanser like, Bar Keepers Friend. That helps the ink adhere to the metal. But to be truthful, I have been lazy, and used a red Staedtler pen on tarnished brass and it worked just fine.

After the ink has dried, test your ink resist to see if it smears or flakes off. Gently rub it with your fingers. If the design stays put, it will hold up well in the acid bath.

A faster method of cleaning older scrap, or dirty brass and copper, is to dip it in a “pickle bath” solution of PH Down (Sodium Bisulfate). You can buy PH Down at any pool supply or hardware store.

Use 1 cup of PH Down crystals to 1 pint of tap water. (Water warmed up in the microwave works even better.) This “pickle” bath will clean up the metal nicely. Then, rinse copper, or brass, in water and dry thoroughly before drawing your design on the metal.

Once you have drawn your design using a red Staedtler pen on the metal, you can store it for months without etching it. Keep it clean, in a bag or box, and the ink will hold up well until you are ready to etch it.
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NOTE: If you make a mistake and need to start over with your hand-drawn design using red Staedtler pen, you can quickly remove the ink with acetone or 70% isoprophyl alcohol.
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ACID ETCHING ON BRASS & COPPER FOR JEWELRY MAKING– Part III

FERRIC CHLORIDE ACID BATH

Ferric Chloride is not a dangerous acid, like Nitric acid or Hydrochloric acid. All it does is make metal rust. You can safely neutralize it with baking soda and pour it down the drain, or in the ground. But it does leave dark stains on your hands if you touch it, so use rubber gloves when working with it. And of course, keep children and pets out of the area at all times.

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Another caution:
I forgot to cover a small container of Ferric Chloride that I re-use for etching in my workshop. I found that (over time) a pegboard stocked full of tools, screw drivers, wire cutters, scissors, and other metals containing iron, mysteriously rusted much faster than normal. (I live in Tucson, AZ where we have a very dry climate and rust is rarely a problem.) So, keep the container of Ferric Chloride covered, or store it away from tools. If left uncovered for more than an hour or two, it may evaporate into the air and attack tools containing iron left in the same room. This is my very own personal unscientific theory.
So take this advice FWIW.

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Where to buy Ferric Chloride:

Ferric Chloride is used by copper circuit board designers. Radio Shack used to carry Ferric Chloride in pints. But they no longer carry it in Tucson, AZ. I buy it, by the gallon, from a chemical supplier here in Tucson.

Note: If you order it from an out-of-state supplier, they will add substantial HAZMAT shipping charges, so it is best to find a local chemical supplier. Many electronic specialty stores carry Ferric Chloride. I have purchased it in crystal form, which works fine too, but I can’t remember the ratio of crystals to water. If you buy it in crystal form, ask your supplier what quantity to mix with water to make a solution that will etch brass or copper quickly.

The bottle of liquid Ferric Chloride (photo top left) is what I am using now. It works great, full strength, straight out of the bottle.

I store the brown glass gallon bottle in a cool, dark place, as sunlight will weaken it. You can cover it with a black plastic garbage bag, but make sure you mark it so no one bumps into it accidentally. I have had this bottle for over a year and it hasn’t lost any strength. Make sure it has a plastic cap.
* Warning: Never use metal caps on Ferric Chloride containers.

I only use about 3 cups at a time, and keep reusing it until it takes longer and longer to achieve the same etch results. Then I throw it out, and start over with a fresh batch. When I use a fresh batch, it will deep etch quickly, in about 30 minutes, so it is good to set a timer and check the etching progress often. After you have used the same batch about 10 times, it will take about 30 minutes longer to achieve the same depth of etch, depending on how many pieces of metal are in the acid bath.

I read an article about adding a teaspoon of powdered Ester C to 3 cups of Ferric Chloride to maintain its strength, and it seems to be working. You can buy powdered Ester C at any drug store.

This messy looking picture is my acid bath with 7 different pieces of brass, in different thicknesses, submerged for etching at the same time. Always use a plastic (or glass) container for your Ferric Chloride acid bath. The container size depends on the size and shapes of metal you are etching.

I have a red metal rolling cart that I bought at Harbor Freight to hold all my etching supplies.

The 11” x 9” black plastic tray (a recycled frozen lasagna dish) underneath the etch bath container, protects the red metal rolling cart from any acid drips or spills. The clear plastic container holding the Ferric Chloride acid bath is 6” square by 3” high. You can buy them at any grocery store. They come with covers that fit tightly.

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Note: Never use a metal container for your acid bath. Ferric Chloride will attack it and quickly corrode it into pieces.

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Aquarium Air Pump to Vibrate the Acid and Keep the Design Clean

When the Ferric Chloride etches brass or copper, tiny loose particles of the etched metal accumulate and clog up the design. In order to get a clean etch, the liquid bath must be kept moving to bump the loose particles to the bottom of the container.

Best Methods for a Clean Etch:

a.) Tape your flat metal design to a 1” thick (or more) piece of Styrofoam using double-sided carpet tape. Your metal/Styrofoam sandwich acts like a boat and floats upside-down on the surface of the Ferric Chloride. Loose particles will fall off the metal design to the bottom of the bath. (See Styrofoam boat design below.)

b.) Buy a small 3” aquarium air pump ($5 at WalMart) and tape it to the outside of the acid container so it vibrates and keeps the liquid moving. (Note small gray aquarium pump next to acid container in photo above left.)

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OR, USE YOUR DRYER: Alternatively, you can place the Ferric Chloride container on top of your dryer and run the empty dryer on “air dry” while the etching is taking place. The vibration of the running dryer will keep the loose particles from accumulating on the submerged metal.

But make sure you use a protective plastic covering to keep any drips of Ferric Chloride off the top of your dryer! Ferric Chloride drips on your dryer will quickly corrode the finish.

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If you are etching round objects, like bullet shell casings, you can plug the open end of the bullet shell with 4” inch length of thin wooden doweling. This accomplishes 2 things.

1.) It keeps any Ferric Chloride from etching the inside of the bullet shell casing.

2.) It keeps the bullet shell submerged, but still floating above the bottom of the container, so the etched particles fall off easily.

If you don’t want to take the time to make a Styrofoam boat for flat pieces of metal, you can punch a small hole in the upper corner of the metal and tie a piece of fishing line to make a loop. Hang these loops over a wooden stick across the top of the Ferric Chloride bath container. The pieces of metal will hang vertically, so the loose particles of etched metal will fall to the bottom of the etching bath.

The only problem is that you can sometimes see the deep etched lines that are made by the loose particles falling in a vertical direction. See photo (right) Round disk with MOM design drawn with black Staedtler pen. The design was hung vertically and you can see the vertical lines etched in the finished pendant. If you use a Styrofoam boat the metal will etch evenly (horizontally) without any vertical lines.

Below are photos of hand-drawn etch “resist” on flat metal which was etched horizontally on a Styrofoam boat.

Note: Make sure you cover any large areas of metal that you DON’T want to etch, (like the back) with clear plastic packing tape. Ferric Chloride will not etch through clear sticky tape if it covers the back of the metal without any bubbles or loose edges.

It is a good idea to cut your metal larger than the finished design so you can overlap the tape around the edges of the design. (below left) You can also use strips of tape or fingernail polish as a resist. Simple geometric designs using tape, or organic designs using floor polish or nail polish can be interesting.

However, you CAN make a 2-sided design by etching the front and back, at the same time. Use a thick piece of brass (or copper) so you can get a deep etch on both sides. A thinner piece of metal may etch holes all the way through the metal, if you etch both sides at the same time.

This hand-drawn design (above) was etched on a floating Styrofoam boat. The back of the metal was taped to prevent any etching on the back. Finished design (below right).

While etching, check on your metal designs in the etch bath about every 30 minutes. I use a bamboo shish-ka-bob skewer to gently touch the edges of the design. If the point of the skewer catches on the edges of the lines, you can feel how deep the etch is, without removing it from the etch bath. If the skewer slides across the design, then it hasn’t etched deep enough and needs to stay in the bath longer.

This is also a good time to check if any parts of the design are breaking down and need to be touched up. (I have never had to do this, but it can be done.)

Rinse the Ferric Chloride off the metal using a separate container with baking soda and water to stop the etching process. Then rinse in plain water and dry so any areas can be touched up with a red Staedtler pen. Then return the touched up design to the etch bath and proceed as before.

Neutralize the Acid to Finish the Process

When you are satisfied with the depth of the etch, submerge the metal in a separate plastic container (clean yogurt tub, cottage cheese or other plastic or glass works fine) with solution of water and 3 or 4 tablespoons of baking soda. This solution neutralizes the Ferric Chloride that is still on the metal. You can see the baking soda solution fizzing as it neutralizes the acid. If you don’t neutralize the Ferric Chloride that is left on the metal with baking soda, it will continue to etch in microscopic crevices of your design and ruin it later.

Next, rinse your metal designs in water and dry.

Tightly cover your Ferric Chloride bath so you can use it later.

(Option: Sprinkle a teaspoon of powdered Ester C in the acid bath so it will keep its strength.)

If you want to dispose of an exhausted Ferric Chloride bath, make sure you add enough baking soda to neutralize it. You can tell it is neutralized when it stops fizzing. Then you can safely dispose of the neutralized acid, down the drain, or in the ground.

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Note: WASTE NOT – WANT NOT

If you wind up with a finished etched design that is missing details and you feel it is ruined, fear not!
You can use the GOOD PARTS of the etched metal for smaller patterned designs.

Below are interesting pendants made from scrap pieces of etched metal.

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Acid Etching on Metal for Jewelry - Part IV will cover acid etching on Sterling Silver using a different chemical etchant and different “resist.”

Please comment or ask questions!

Stay tuned for Part IV in this series on Etching.

Do what you enjoy! Happy etching!

Virginia Vivier
Esprit Mystique Artisan Jewelry
Tucson, Arizona

"Talk to a tree, it's older than you and knows more."

DIY- Design Transfer for Acid Etched Brass, Silver and Copper Jewelry

2010-01-27T16:27:00.000-08:00

What is your favorite design? Wish you could transform it into a series of etched pendants? If drawing multiple designs by hand would take hours, here is speedy way to transfer complex designs to metal for acid etching.

First, scale the design to the exact size you need. You can do this on your computer, or you can go to any photocopy store to reduce (or increase) the image size. Make sure you have a flat design with strong black and white contrast areas. (Shaded, or gray areas, won't work.) The design must be black and white.

Above (left) is an example of a design that can be used as a positive or negative image. (You could reverse the design via the "invert" setting on your computer in Paint.net or PhotoShop graphic application.)

While you are in the Copy Store, make a few copies of your designs on a copy machine that uses dry toner. Make each copy as dark (bold) as you can. The layer of dry toner that is transferred from the paper copy to the metal acts as a "resist" to the acid. Below is an example of brass that was etched using ferric chloride.

In acid etching, the black design areas act as a resist to the acid, the white design areas will be etched deeper than the black design areas. Generally, the etched (white) part of the design can be thought of as the background.

If your design has any letters or numbers, make sure you make a "Mirror image" so the words will read right when you transfer them to the metal. Here is an example of a name plate for a key ring. In the design (above right),"Nikki" is a mirror image that will read correctly after it is transferred to metal. (below left)

If you have a copy machine at home that has a dry toner cartridge, it should work fine. But do NOT use an ink jet printer. Ink jet copies won't transfer. I have an old Canon K140 copy machine that uses dry toner. You should test other dry toner copiers before you buy one to make sure the toner transfers well.

The best transfer paper is free. Save your old magazines and use them as transfer paper. (You can also use Sunday newspaper magazine section, but if the sheets are too thin they may get stuck in the copier). The heavy paper from a fancy magazine works best. Regular copy paper doesn't work.

You can "gang" your designs on one sheet of paper to transfer multiple images on a single sheet of metal.
I know this sounds strange, but trust me, only the dry toner from your paper copy will transfer to the metal. The print on the magazine page won't transfer. Think of the magazine paper as a "carrier" for the dry toner. And, isn't it great that we can recycle the magazine paper while we are creating something new and beautiful?

Set your designs aside and prepare the metal for transfer (Bronze, Brass, Copper, or Silver). The metal needs to be spotlessly clean. Bar Keeper's Friend is a powdered cleanser (with oxalic acid) that works well to clean off any oil from fingerprints and tarnish on the metal. It also roughens the surface enough to help grab the dry toner.

The most important step is to make sure your metal is meticulously clean and the water sheets off evenly, without any spots. If your metal has even the tiniest bit of dirt or oil, the toner won't adhere to the metal.

Next, find a flat work area near an electric outlet where you can plug in an iron and press the dry toner paper onto the metal. Use your regular iron in dry setting (not steam), and turn it up as high as it will go, (usually Cotton setting).

Press down on the iron to make sure the paper design makes good contact with the metal. (If you wish, you can place a piece of paper towel between the iron and the paper design to keep the bottom of your iron clean, but if you do it right, your iron won't pick up any of the dry toner.)

Let the iron set on top of the paper design for at least 2 minutes. Don't rush it and don't move the iron, or it may smear the dry toner before it is set. (Leaving it for 5 minutes will work as well, if not better.)

Next, carefully lift the iron up and turn it off. Let the metal and paper transfer cool on its own. When the metal is cool enough to touch, put it in a bowl of water to soak off the magazine paper. Don't rush it.

Let the paper get thoroughly saturated. After the paper is softened, you can rub it off with your thumb and the toner will remain intact. Don't worry if some of the paper is attached to the toner. It will dissolve in the acid etch bath.

If you don't want to use your iron, you can use an old electric skillet. In the center of the electric skillet, layer the design paper (right side up), then metal, and on top of the metal, place a brick to press the metal onto the paper design. Heat your electric skillet to 350 degrees for 2-3 minutes. Turn it off and let everything cool gradually before you remove the metal.

In some cases you can touch up any missing spots with a special type of felt pen, but the entire design etches best if the resist is uniform.

In case you find that part of your design didn't transfer properly, (maybe there was a bit of oil on the metal?) you can remove the dry toner with acetone and start over.

If your design didn't transfer fully, you may want to increase the length of time under the iron or skillet. 5 minutes may work better as some iron temperatures may not be as hot as others.

Now, you are ready for the etch bath. We'll cover that in detail, in future articles.

This is the first in a series of 4 parts about acid etched designs on brass, copper and silver. Next, we'll cover how you can draw designs, by hand, on metal, using a special felt pen as a resist.

Stay tuned!

"Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover." — Mark Twain

Do what you enjoy!

Virginia Vivier

Esprit Mystique Artisan Jewelry

Esprit Mystique Etsy

Tucson, Arizona

Out of the Ordinary Valentine Gift for Man, Woman & Child - Custom Zipper Pulls!

2010-01-26T17:21:00.000-08:00

Yep. Betcha never thought of giving someone a zipper pull as a Valentine's Day gift? But think about it, a personal zipper pull is something that anyone can enjoy, man, woman, child, and everyone in between.

Are you wearing as much jewelry as you used to? Many folks don't want to flaunt their jewelry in these rough economic times, when so many of their peers are struggling just to make ends meet. And, with the exorbitant price of gold, you could be mugged just for wearing your favorite gold bracelet. But that doesn't mean that you have to give up and blend in. You can still make a statement by the way you dress and accessorize. Wearing a custom, personalized zipper pull is a subtle way of claiming your uniqueness.

Think of all the things you use on a daily basis that has a zipper? Your favorite jacket, bookbag, handbag, luggage, briefcase, backpack, tobacco pouch, slacks, wallet, secret compartments, gym bag, and/or fanny pack? What better way to personalize them, than with unique zipper pulls. Seriously!

Esprit Mystique Artisan Jewelry has all kinds of unusual zipper pulls. They work better than rabbit's feet. Especially if you are superstitious. They have petroglyph fertility symbols for those ready to start a family; calming rock crystal points for fans of the metaphysical; recycled bullet shells styles for the

inner cowboy in all of us; crosses for the religious; and personalized messages, like "I'm Yours," Wild Child," "Cave Man," "Hunka Burnin' Love," etc.
You get the idea. Fun, huh?

Jazz up your favorite zippers. Personalize them with a custom zipper pull charm from Esprit Mystique Artisan Jewelry.

Virginia Vivier
Esprit-Mystique-Artisan-Jewelry
EspritMystique.Etsy.com
Tucson, Arizona

Great Valentine's Day Gifts for Your Man - Spiffy, Snazzy Personalized Key Rings

2010-01-24T11:51:00.000-08:00

Are you having problems finding a unique, personalized, Valentine's Day gift for your Man?
Here are some snazzy gift ideas that will remind him of you every day.

How would he like his Personalized Key Ring? Handcrafted from a recycled brass Magnum bullet shell? This key ring is different and one-of-a-kind with Native American symbols stamped on both sides. These ancient symbols are believed to attract positive energy and good spirits. Your Man will think of you each time he uses his keys. Here's a practical and loving gift for Valentine's Day.

We can personalized this custom designed bullet shell key ring with messages and symbols. Your choice. No extra charge for your custom designs.

Here are some variations of bullet shell key rings that are available on Esprit Mystique.com.

This Magnum bullet shell key ring is etched with Celestial designs representing Life's journey. He will be reminded of your partnership with him whenever he holds his keys.

Prefer metaphysical jewelry? This key ring holds a natural rock crystal in the tip of the bullet shell to keep your Man in a state of calm, and at peace, in these troubled times. It is made from a recycled, pure brass, Magnum bullet shell. It also shows that the owner believes in recycling and saving our landfills from being polluted with spent bullet shells.

Here is a more practical key ring that can help in an emergency.
A solid, pure brass, Police Whistle made into a key ring. This Police Whistle key ring can also be etched with custom symbols.

Contact us at Esprit Mystique Artisan Jewelry. We will make a custom designed, personalized key ring Valentine's Day gift for your Man. Free shipping to continental USA.

Mystical Spirit
Esprit Mystique on Etsy
Esprit Mystique Artisan Jewelry
Amulets at Esprit-Mystique dot com
Tucson, Arizona

How to Create Multiple Valentine Jewelry Hearts Quickly - Using a Hydraulic Press

2010-01-19T13:14:00.000-08:00

Would you like to create a line of jewelry that looks professional with a very limited amount of tools? Investing in a hydraulic press can save you hours of labor creating a unique line of jewelry that looks as if it were made by hand, one-at-a-time.

In my last article, we discussed how to cut duplicate shapes out of sterling silver, copper, brass and gold using pancake dies (also referred to as shearing dies, or blanking dies). This time, I would like to go one step further and share the benefits of using a hydraulic press to quickly create 3 dimensional shapes from a flat piece of metal.

I bought a "used" 20 ton hydraulic press, in 2001, after reading Susan Kingsley's book, Hydraulic Die Forming for Jewelers & Metalsmiths. Susan's book explained how to duplicate original shapes quickly, rather than cutting out and hammering each shape, tediously, one-at-a-time. Back then, I paid $500 for a second-hand press. If you were to buy a new one today, it would run quite a bit more. You can probably find DIY directions on how to make a 20 ton hydraulic press, on the internet, if you have the equipment and "expertise" to do it. (I certainly didn't.)

Since then, I discovered a local genius, Kevin Potter, who has greatly simplified and improved the design of a 20 ton press used for jewelry making. Kevin's site, PotterUSA, carries hydraulic presses and all kinds of metal forming tools at very reasonable prices. (I am not associated with Kevin Potter - usual disclaimers - just a big fan of his jewelry making tools.)

I would like to share how you can make sterling silver puffed hearts for Valentine's Day jewelry, quickly and easily, using a hydraulic press.

This heart would normally take much longer to produce if you were to cut out the shape with a jeweler's saw and form it using hand tools.

This "puffed" heart, made from a flat piece of 18 gauge brass, took less than 5 minutes to complete, start to finish. It could be made into earrings, a pendant, or bracelet, by drilling holes and adding jump rings. Simply gorgeous.

PotterUSA carries 71 different sizes and shapes of silhouette dies that can be used to create "puffed" shapes using a hydraulic press. (PotterUSA Silhouette dies are $15 each/free shipping.) Silhouette dies are available in the shape of circles, triangles, diamonds, teardrops, crescent moon, hearts, ovals, hexagons, stars and many more!

What I like best, is that you can use a silhouette die to form different sizes of the same shape. For example, you can use a large heart silhouette die for a pendant, and a smaller version of the same heart to make earrings to match the pendant, as well as, bracelet components.

One thing that may be misunderstood, is that the silhouette die doesn't CUT OUT the shape, it forces the metal to puff through the negative opening of the die. You can put extra pressure on the die which gives you a clearly defined outline of the shape, but it doesn't cut it free of the die.

You can use metal shears (or a jeweler's saw for thicker gauges of metal) to cut it free. I rarely need to use a jeweler's saw. I use Joyce Chen shears ($19.99) to cut off the excess flange. Joyce Chen shears work very well on metal. You can file down any rough edges if you need to.
I used a flat piece of patterned brass to form this star. You can purchase flat sheets of patterned brass from Metalliferous.com.

This one has a fun elephant design.

Run the rough cutout shapes in a rotary tumbler, filled with water and stainless steel shot, for 2 hours, to smooth down the rough edges. The rough pieces can be polished by hand, but a rotary tumbler will save much of the time-consuming handwork. The rotary tumbler produces a bright, shiny surface and smooth edges. You can get them on sale at Harbor Freight for around $40. Lortone.com also carries a wide variety of rotary tumblers.

One other thing you need, is a urethane "pusher." The urethane is placed on top of the metal that is sitting on top of the silhouette die. The urethane can take all the pressure you can muster on the 20 ton press and it won't break. It squishes down into the open space of the die and forces the metal to "puff" out below it. It's really an amazing process to wateh.

PotterUSA carries the urethane "pusher" and container to hold the die. (Sometimes I just use a piece of urethane sheet on top of the metal, without the container, to push a shallow shape through the silhouette die. If you want a very deep "puff" you can use the container to force the urethane deeply into the die.)

If you just need a small piece of urethane, contact Kevin Potter at PotterUSA and he will include it with your order. It's relatively cheap.)

Here are some photos of the metal "puffing" process. The photo below shows the silhouette die sitting on top of a flat metal base (optional). The piece of metal to be "puffed" is placed on top of the silhouette die. On top of the metal is a piece of urethane. If this sounds confusing, it is explained very well in Susan Kingley's book.

Note the bulging of the urethane on top of the metal and die as pressure is exerted from the press (photo below). This is at about 3500 pounds pressure, which is about maximum pressure for the gauge of metal I was using. Further pressure may tear the metal.

Each of the jewelry (shown below) required less than 5 minutes of handwork using a hydaulic press, pancake dies or silhouette dies, and a rotary tumbler. You can create a lot of gorgeous jewelry designs in an 8 hour day, using a hydraulic press.

Valentine's Day, Mother's Day & Father's Day gifts are a built in markets for you -

Be creative and have fun!

Please contact me if you have any questions! Amulets at Esprit-Mystique dot com

Virginia Vivier

Esprit-Mystique.com
EspritMystique.Etsy.com
Tucson, Arizona

YOU DON'T NEED EXPENSIVE TOOLS TO MAKE BEAUTIFUL JEWELRY

2010-01-04T13:19:00.000-08:00

Are you looking for a way to make some extra income? Do you like to create beaded jewelry? Perhaps you would rather work with precious metals, but don't have the extra cash (or time for training) to invest in expensive metalsmithing tools?

Create your own line of earrings, pendants and bracelets for an investment of less than $150 in tools. Sell wholesale to boutiques or retail as an Art Festival Vendor. You could recoup that investment by selling 6 pendants, earrings and/or bracelets at $25 each, including materials. If you sold 50 per month at $25 each, you could make $1250. Sound interesting?

I found a supplier with a line of pancake dies (also known as shearing dies), in different shapes and sizes. Pancake dies allow you to cutout a shape in silver, brass, gold or copper, repeatedly, in seconds. (If you were to draw these shapes on a piece of metal and cut them out using a jeweler's saw, it would take 10 times longer to duplicate the same shape, by hand, one at a time. Plus, you would have the added cost of buying a jeweler's saw and blades.)

Using a pancake die is a snap. Simply sandwich a piece of copper, brass or silver into the die and apply enough pressure to cut the metal shape out of the die.
You can use a standard vise to squeeze the die until the metal shape pops out (Total investment - $40 for the vise, and $18 for the pancake die. Plus some strong muscles to apply the pressure.)

Or, you can use a 20 ton hydraulic press which makes it much easier, but of course, adds greatly to the investment. You can buy a 20 ton hydraulic press through Rio Grande for about $1800 plus $300 in shipping, or you can buy a more user-friendly 20 ton hydraulic press at PotterUSA for about $700.

Checkout this YouTube video on how to use a pancake die in a hydraulic press.

If you don't have the cash to buy a hydraulic press, here are some photos to show how to use the pancake dies with a standard vise First, insert the metal in the die shape, then position the die sandwich in the jaws of a heavy duty vise. Tighten the jaws of the vise until you hear a snapping sound. Loosen the jaws of the vise and remove the die. The result is a positive and negative shape from the die.

Below are samples showing how you can use the pancake dies to create finished jewelry, quickly. You can further shape them by lightly hammering into a dapping block. My dapping block is about 20 years old and is showing age (like me), but still works just fine (like me : ). You can find dapping blocks on Ebay and Craig's List in a wide variety of prices. The block has several different dome sizes. Dapping blocks are also available in wood (much cheaper), but do not hold up as well as steel.

I made this simple pendant in under 5 minutes, start to finish. I stamped Italian words using metal alphabet stamps you can buy on Ebay. It says "ridi spesso, vivi bene, ama molto" which translates to "Laugh alot, Live well, Love much." You could make it more personal with loved one's initials, birthdate, wedding or anniversary date.

It's easy to make matching earrings and a bracelet, by punching out smaller matching shapes and connecting the components to earring hooks, or using chain links to make a bracelet.

So, for an investment of under $150 in tools, you could create your own jewelry designs.

A wide variety of Pancake dies can be purchased from PotterUSA.com for $18 each.

Dapping block sets start at $25+ on Ebay. Make sure you check the diameter of the dome size to fit the shape of the jewelry you want to create before you buy!

To add a shiny finish and smooth out rough edges, you can get a rotary tumbler at Harbor Freight for about $40. I like to use a bench grinder - Harbor Freight - about $39 and switch out the grinding wheels for polishing wheels that create a shiny or matte finish.

Last, you may want a hole punching tool (about $12) and a pair of metal scissors to cut off the tab left from the pancake die.

For cutting off die tabs you can't beat Joyce Chen scissors. They cut 18 gauge metal like butter. If you don't have metal scissors, you can fold the tab over and use it as a bail to hold chains.) So, if you shop carefully, total investment is under $150.

I buy textured brass from Metalliferous and then use a pancake die to cut out the shape. I add some stamped designs for interest. The result is a hand-made forged look. Metalliferous has a wide variety of textured metals at a very reasonable price.

Esprit-Mystique.com

Let us know if you have questions or comments. There are lots of ways to sell jewelry.

We hope to "pay it forward" for all the wonderful Mentors who helped us in our journey.

Here are some of our favorite resources for info on jewelry making, tools and supplies:

The Ganoksin Project

Rena Klingenberg
PotterUSA

Rio Grande

Metalliferous

Have fun working - do what you enjoy!

Virginia Vivier

Esprit-Mystique

Tucson, Arizona

TIP! HOW TO PLUG IN COMPUTER CABLES EASILY – USE SOLAR MIRROR LIGHT

2009-12-10T23:06:00.000-08:00

We are Artists located in Tucson, Arizona, creating one-of-a-kind jewelry. While we use many tools to produce our designs, this particular tool is helping to reduce the number of dead batteries destroying our landfills!

I spend one day a week updating our website with new photos of our jewelry designs. This sometimes involves plugging in cameras and different printers.

When I need to plug in a new Monitor, Printer, Portable Hard-Drive, Modem or, Digital Camera in to the computer, I have to maneuver into a cramped space under the desk or, bend like a pretzel to find the right spot in the back of the computer. Usually this results in neck strain along with the connected cables that are too short to allow more than 1 foot of movement away from the wall/cabinet/desk space that the computer is jammed into. I’ve tried holding a mirror in one hand and a flashlight in the other, to find the mysterious, allusive plug. Then, dropping the mirror/flashlight, and feeling for the right plug - from memory, in the dark space in the back of the computer.

Or, here’s another PITA situation: We get a new DVD player and need to plug it into the quagmire of holes in the back of our Home-Theater-Stereo convoluted mess of wires. Our amplifier has at least 30 different plug-in outlets that I am not familiar with. Finding the right one without pulling the whole unit out of the Media Cabinet is a royal PITA.

Voila! Here’s a perfect solution to make these jobs easy! I found this neat Solar Mirror Inspection Light at a Tucson Trade Show and just ADORE IT! It has even been featured on USA Today by an Auto Mechanic who uses it for inspecting “hard to reach places” under the car.

I was so impressed with this Solar light that I contacted the Inventor and told him I was giving it to all my friends and family as holiday Stocking Stuffers. He was so pleased that he gave me a special code to enter on his website for a 10% discount off any purchases of his Eco-Friendly Solar products.

So I decided to share this special code with you. (Shhh, don’t tell anyone, but if you enter this code on his Shopping Cart page, it won’t expire and you can buy anything, even at a later date, using the 10% discount.)

So, here is my holiday present to Y’all – Use this code: 856VV10 for a 10% discount and enjoy the Solar Inspection Mirror Light, as I have.

Here’s the webpage where you can find the Solar Inspection Mirror Light:

http://store.solargoose.com/solar.aspx
@ $34.95 - 10% = $31.46 plus free shipping!

Please feel free to contact me if you have any questions about these neat Solar Lights. I'll be happy to share my experiences! Email: Amulets@Esprit-Mystique.com

Ho, Ho, Ho – Merry Holidays!

Esprit Mystique Folks
http://www.espritmystique.etsy.com/
Tucson, Arizona

P.S. Here's another USA Today picture of an Auto Mechanic using the Solar Flashlight - using the base charger and LED Head. No batteries, ever! Whoo Hooo....Yipee.

Below is a photo of what the powerful Solar Flashlight looks like. Never buy flashlight batteries again. Ever.

HOW TO GET ON SANTA'S GOOD LIST

2009-12-06T14:08:00.000-08:00

Have you been Naughty or Nice, this year? If you are worried about any tidbits that might bump you off Santa's list, here is a necklace to help you get back on Santa's "Good Side."

I made this necklace for one of my friends, who wasn't sure what Santa had heard from his little elves. She wanted to make sure he got the "whole story."

Once you get the facts straight with Santa, the pendant is reversible so you can wear it all year long!

It is made of pure brass with a tiny bronze heart riveted to the top, so Santa knows you love him. The reverse side is hand-etched with a unique scroll pattern. The ring bail is large enough to accommodate chains, or seed bead necklaces, so you can wear it with any outfit.

It comes with a 16 inch adjustable, natural leather, round chord necklace, or, with an 18 inch brass chain. You can find it here:

http://www.etsy.com/view_listing.php?listing_id=36141281

Ho, Ho, Ho - Merry Holidays to All
from sunny Tucson, Arizona!

Mystical Spirit
http://www.esprit-mystique.etsy.com/
Tucson, Arizona, USA

SOLAR FLASHLIGHT - GREAT STOCKING STUFFER!

2009-12-05T11:27:00.000-08:00

Would you like to do something to reduce the horrific number of dead batteries polluting our landfills? Why not fill your family holiday stockings with Solar LED Flashlights & Solar Cell Phone Chargers this year? Never buy another battery to pollute our landfills again. Ever.

I found out about these new Solar LED lights quite by accident. I make one-of-a-kind jewelry, http://www.espritmystique.etsy.com/, and had a booth at a Trade Show in Tucson, Arizona last month. The booth across from me was selling Solar LED Flashlights and Solar cell phone chargers. I walked over to see what they had and was quite surprised. (The only Solar products I had experienced were outdoor walkway lamps from Home Depot, and to be truthful, they were so weak that you could hardly see anything beyond a foot or more. Home Depot's Solar walkway lights were not powerful enough for me to want to purchase them, so I was skeptical about these Solar LED Flashlights.)

When I tested the Solar LED Flashlight I was amazed at how powerful the beam of light was. I pointed it at the ceiling of the Expo Center (at least 50 feet above me) and saw a distinct 5 foot circle of light! Wow, that was AS powerful, if not MORE, than my $30 flashlight that I carry in my car for emergencies. You know, the one that has dead batteries as soon as you need it!

So I purchased a Solar LED Flashlight along with the Mobile Phone Charger for my cell phone. (Seems I am always talking too much on my cell phone at Art Festivals where there are no plugs to recharge the darn things.)

I was so thrilled with these Solar items that I called the Product Designer and made a proposal: I would tell all my friends and family about his neat Solar LED products if he would offer a coupon discount specifically from me, as a favor to my friends.

So, here is my Holiday gift to you. Go to this website and take a look at these Solar LED products - STOP buying batteries. If you enter this coupon code on the Shopping Cart page, you will get 10% off anything on the website, even if it is already on sale! Cool beans.

COUPON CODE Holiday present from Virginia Vivier: 856VV10

Website for Solar LED Flashlights and Cell Phone Chargers: http://store.solargoose.com/solar.aspx

Virginia Vivier

http://www.espritmystique.etsy.com/

Tucson, Arizona

P.S. Shhhhh, just between us....don't tell - Once you enter the coupon code, it will never expire - You can share it with your friends. Total price for both is approx. $75 depending on what combo you need.

Feel free to contact me if you have questions about what you think will work best for you: Amulets@Esprit-Mystique.com

Solar Lights For Jewelry Art Festival Booths!

2009-11-10T14:30:00.000-08:00

If you sell Artisan jewelry at outdoor Art Festivals or indoor Trade Shows, perhaps you have endured locations where the lighting was poor. How can you achieve good lighting for your jewelry display without carrying multiple extension cords, bulky lamps, and paying an additional service fee for an electric outlet?

The last Show I attended was at The Expo Center in Tucson, Arizona. The old building had antiquated flourescent light fixtures situated at least 100 feet above my table. The lights cast a harsh bluish tint on everything. And to top it off, the flourescent light fixtures directly above my booth were burned out! It took 36 hours (and a lot of pleading) to get building maintenance to replace the burned out bulbs. I suffered an entire day in the gloom of my space. Not good, for selling jewelry!

Here are some options to provide better lighting for your jewelry display - Be sure to shop around for the best prices.

A.) PORTABLE BATTERY SETUP

Provides power for 4 desk lamps and 1 cc processing machine or laptop computer.

(1) 12 volt 50 amp battery - approx. $145 ($75 for 30 amp battery).

(1) 12 volt, 1.5 amp battery charger (approx $35).

(1) 400 watt Inverter with 2 outlets (approx. $40).

(1) 6 plug outlet Power Strip (6 foot cord, 6 outlets approx. $10).

Total cost approx. $160 with 33 amp battery or, $230 for 50 amp battery.

Total space needed for transporting this portable battery setup to a Show = approx. 1.5 cubic feet. Less space than one heavy duty 25 foot extension cord.

The 50 amp battery runs for 50 hours before needing to be recharged. It weighs 40 lbs, so you may need a hand-truck to carry it to your booth site. Option: You can buy a 12 Volt, 33 amp battery ($75) that weighs only 25 lbs, but it will need to be recharged after 30 hours. You can charge it up at home.

The Inverter is connected to the battery. It converts the battery voltage into standard 110 volts for your lights. The Inverter has 2 electrical 110 volt plug-in outlets. You can plug a 6 outlet Power Strip into the inverter for your lights and laptop or cc processor.

I needed to run 4 lights and my laptop computer (or cc processing machine). The 50 amp battery provided enough power for a 2 day Show. I didn't have to lug it home for recharging after the first day. Note: You DO have to make sure the battery is not sitting directly on the ground in case of rain in an outdoor Show, so bring a 2 x 4 board, or other type of riser, to keep it off the ground. This is not a problem for indoor Shows.

B.) SOLAR LIGHTS - No Batteries!!!

I found a great new Solar solution for the lights! Here's some alternative SOLAR ideas to the Portable Battery Setup:

Flexible Tube Clip Lights - See photo. This compact solar light clips to your display and can be pointed in different directions. If you are in an outdoor Show, it will automatically keep charging from the ambient sunlight. If you are in an indoor Show, you will need to recharge overnight or have ready-charged replacement Solar batteries on hand. (Solar Flexible Tube Lights - $35 each)

Note: These Solar lights are quite powerful since they use LED technology. They provide 6 hours of indoor light per charge, so you will need spare (pre-charged) solar batteries for 12 continuous hours of running time at a 2 day indoor Show.

BONUS: These Solar lights provide color correct lighting! And they are not HOT like standard light bulbs. Perfect for gem and jewelry displays.

--------------------------------------------------------

For cc processing:

(1) JPOS Software - Operates on any Windows laptop pc.

Software: Free. Laptop Swiper: $79 for receipts.

Note: You will need backup laptop batteries if you process charges continually during the day. Or, you can swipe the receipts and process them later in the evening.
Or,
(1) Wireless Merchant Account using cell phone processing. You will need to swipe charge forms in order to provide receipts or alternatively, provide hand-written receipts. Swiper: $39.

(1) Solar operated Cell Phone Charger - $60.

Total cost for (4) solar lights: Approx. $144, (not including cc swiper or Solar phone charger).

Total space to transport to Show = Less than 1 cubic foot of space - No heavy batteries, no chords, no bulky lights. I hope these ideas spark some creative solutions for your Art Festival jewelry displays.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

SPECIAL - 25% off Coupon for Solar Lights and Cell Phone Charger

I was so impressed with these Solar products that I purchased a large quantity of them and can offer fellow Jewelry Artisans a special 25% discount.

Please feel free to contact me, especially if you wish to purchase the Solar Phone Charger or Solar Flexible Tube Lights. Both come with a 60 day replacement guarantee.

a.) Flexible Tube Clip Light (red) $35 - 25% = $26.25
b.) Solar Cell Phone Charger $60 - 25% = $45
c.) Flexible Tube Light Base (silver) plus Flex Light & Cell Phone Charger $90 - 25% = $67.50

Please email me directly if you would like to take advantage of this special:
Amulets@Esprit-Mystique.com

Virginia Vivier
http://www.EspritMystique.etsy.com/

Amulets@Esprit-Mystique.com